My Roman Classroom (Churches, Aqueducts, and Bagels?)

Welcome back to My Roman Classroom where you get to indirectly tag along to my on-site classes and lectures held all around Rome!

This week in...
Art of the Renaissance and Baroque

Raphael's Tomb

After getting back from Siena at midnight, I met my class at the Pantheon at 9am Monday morning.  Not fun... but beautiful.  I missed my Mime friend from gelato night, but I did get to see Raphael's tomb.

Even more beautiful frescos!

After our quick tour, we visited three Catholic churches.  The first was Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, which translates to St. Mary above Athena.  Yep, you guessed it!  It's another church-built-over-a-church.  Even after Rome became the Holy Center of the world, much of the population of Rome itself was not Catholic.  Slowly but surely, the temples to gods and goddesses were converted and/or built over.  The idea was 'Once a sacred space, always a sacred space' so that more people could relate.  The church was built in the early 1200s and is the best and maybe only example of Gothic style architecture in Rome.  No flying buttresses, but the interior arches are pointed instead of round like the other churches.

Gothic Arches

Sant'Agostino was our second stop.  It wasn't too far of a walk but the journey there was...eventful.  As we were walking out of the square an older woman carrying a bag of food said "GO HOME! Stupid tourists." Ok, send all the tourists away and we'll see what the economy does to the price of your groceries.  When we got to the church a group of French business men and women scolded us for...well, we're not sure what exactly, but their guide said something and they all laughed so our professor turned around and said "Yes, yes, it's very funny."  They followed us inside and then got shushed by the guy working at the desk.
Thanks Karma!

Santa Maria

It was another gorgeous cathedral.  We can tell it's High Renaissance by the very simple facade and raised entrance (to be closer to God).  It is the home of the only Raphael fresco completely open to the public.

Our last site was a small church by the name of Santa Maria dell'Anima.  It was the first German church built in Rome and is very decorated.  The painting on the alter of the Virgin and Child was done by Giulio Romano, one of Raphael's best pupils.

Living Rome

Who's up for a picnic?

This week in Living Rome we visited the Park of the Aqueducts which it turns out is on the far east side of Rome.  We took a bus all the way to Termini Station at the center, and then the Metro all the way out to the park.  We called our professor on the way because we were running late and he told us to meet at the large church.  I don't know what happened, but we ended up beating him and the rest of the class there.

Aqueducts

The park, as one man said to us while walking his dog, is "paradise for all."  It's calm, quiet, and beautiful.  Bike and walking trails weave around crumbling portions of towering aqueducts.  Our professor gave us questions to think about like, How do Romans live in and around ancient history?  Should these ruins that are scattered all over the city be isolated and preserved or open to the public?  Is "re-using" these structures harming our treasured history?  Very interesting...  He also told us there is no working map of the park since it is only 20 years old and still being shaped.  Can you say fascinating final project?

Pluto!

We walked along one of the walls where, in the 1950s, a small community was built along the arches.  After a while, the government forced everyone to move to a planned community and tore down the houses that had been built into the ruins.  Now there are a few large villas along the road.  We walked by one with two women and two dogs, one big, white and fluffy and the other small, black, and sleek.

Their names were Boc and Pluto and they were very friendly.

Italian
Ok, I know it's not an on-site, but today's class needs to be mentioned.

Professora: "Ethan, Che cosa prendi per colazione?" (What do you have for breakfast)

Ethan: "Io prendo, um, un...bagel?"

Professora: "Bagel? What is Bagel? We do not have them in Roma?"

Zac: "They're only the BEST THINGS IN THE WORLD!"

Ah, cultural differences...

In other news...

Oh yeah.  Rockin' the AUR pride.

My Heart is in Siena!

Piazza del Campo

How to Go to Siena for the Day

Step One: Greet the day when you wake up feeling fresh and ready for adventure!

Translation: Drag yourself and your roommate out of bed at 5:00am making as many grunting and moaning noises as you can.

Step Two:  Take a moment for some quiet meditation in nature.

Translation: Wait at the bus stop in the cold for 45 minutes.

Step Three: When you feel ready, some light exercise will start your day off right.

Translation: Decide that the bus isn’t coming and begin walking to a Taxi stand, then sprint 2 blocks to the next stop when the bus sneaks up behind you.

A "San Paolo" at San Paolo's

Step Four: Experience and appreciate the journey and everything it takes to get where you’re going.

Translation: Ride the graffiti covered Metro train with doors that open before the train comes to a stop and close after the train has started moving.

Step Five: Don’t forget to relax!  Enjoy your trip!

Translation: Get on the coach, find a seat in the back, and fall asleep for the three-hour bus ride.

Despite a bit of a rocky start, we made it to Siena in one piece. 

Front gates of the Duomo

Siena is a small town in Tuscany famous for its back and white stripped cathedral and city square.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site meaning it preserves incredible cultural heritage of humanity and is protected and preserved.  In the square, Piazza del Campo, there is a traditional horse race held twice a year between the ten neighborhoods.  To be chosen as your neighborhood's representative is a great honor and many riders dedicate their lives and careers to training for the race.  We also heard the horses must be of a certain breed because the corners are so sharp that many can’t handle the turns without serious injury.  It’s not racing season, but the square was full of families with young children dressed in costumes and throwing confetti at each other to celebrate Carnivale, the masquerade festival that takes place in Venice in February and March.

The Alter of the Cathedral

We got off the bus and started walking down winding roads encased by tall brick buildings.  I guess all roads lead to the Piazza because after a few minutes of not knowing where we were going, we found ourselves in front of the towering Palazzo Pubblico and its Torre del Mangia.  Torre del Mangia translates to “Tower of the Eater” which apparently related to the reputation of the first guardian of the tower.  It is said he never had any money because he spent every available coin on food.  I don’t blame him.  I would spend my life’s savings on gelato if I could.

Black and white are Siena's official colors.

The beautiful square distracted us from our growling stomachs for a little while, but after a few photos, we went on the hunt for food.  Anna has a friend who visited Siena and gave her a list of suggestions with mini history lessons.  While still trying to get our bearings, we stumbled onto the exact sandwich shop mentioned in the list.  It’s called San Paolo’s and is famous for the menu of 50 different sandwiches.  Also their bathroom which was like using the bathroom on an alien space ship.  Not that I have experience in that area...

Hymnals older than my country

After a delicious lunch, we walked over to the Cathedral.  It was built in the early 1200s.  I am still having trouble describing the beauty.  Frescos, mosaic tiles, and breathtaking domes are all you see.  In one of the chapels you can see original hymnals perfectly preserved.  I didn’t want to walk around because even the floor is a work of art. 

Next we went to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.  This five-story museum is packed with original works of art from around Siena and furniture, stained glass, and art from the Cathedral.  We couldn’t understand much because all of the information was in Italian, but just looking at the dates was enough to make our jaws drop.

eek!

At the top of the museum is the passageway to the arch, a kind of gate at the opening of the Cathedral piazza.  We climbed the very old, very small spiral staircases to the top and gazed out at all of Siena.

After carefully climbing back down and taking a breath, we continued on to the crypt and the Chapel of John the Baptist.  All of the artifacts displayed in the crypt must have been touring, but the structure itself is amazing.  Parts of the floor are cut out and glass is placed over the holes to look into the burial chambers.

Chapel of St. John the Baptist

The Chapel is very peaceful.  We sat in the pews and studied the beautiful ceiling and Donatello’s sculpture of John the Baptist in bronze.

"Underwater" Gift Shop

Walking out of the Chapel, there is a small gift shop.  We were about to walk by when an English sign caught my eye.  “This used to be below sea level!” There was an arrow pointing to the ground.  We walked in and were greeted by the smell of salt and algae and hundreds of painted dishes and platters.  The walls were exactly what I see when I go SCUBA diving: rolling rock with nooks and crannies covered in slimy green algae.

It started raining as we walked out so we took shelter in a café and I had my first Italian hot chocolate.  It was thick and delicious!  We decided to stay for dinner and I had some very good pasta with pesto.  We topped off the night with gelato before walking back to the bus stop and going home.

As wonderful as it is to be in Rome, I think my heart might be in Siena.

To see more, better quality photos, click HERE!

All We Wanted Was Gelato

"I think we go this way." "No, I think it's this way." "Well there's a little piazza up ahead, let’s go there and get oriented."

We were on a mission, find Giolitti.  This little gelato shop is said to be the best in Rome.  Sounds pretty popular, right?  Probably easy to get to?  Not so much.  The winding cobblestone streets, while charming and beautiful, can make walking to a landmark 500 meters away require the brainpower of taking a final exam.  So there we were, walking towards some random piazza to try and figure out where we were.  

“Ok, so this is…wait, what…is that the Pantheon?!”

We figured it out pretty quickly.

In my sociology class this week, our professor talked about Mental Mapping.  It is said that people don’t think of their city as it appears on a map.  They create their own image based on where the spend time and what they interact with.  Our Mental Maps of Rome at this point probably only cover our apartments, the route we take to get to school, and maybe where we spend our evenings since we haven’t even been here a month yet.  However, the map will expand as we continue to live in and experience the city.

This is how I want to experience Rome.  I’m not rushing to see every major sight right away because I want to spend time getting to know the areas they are in.  I want to know what cute little café is two blocks away from the Colosseum or where the best place to get coffee by the Spanish Steps is.  So, for those of you who have been waiting for the photo from the top of the Vatican or a walk around the Roman Forum, they are coming, I promise!

Anyway, it was almost closing time so we ducked into the Pantheon quickly.  We plan to come back soon for a full tour in the daylight.  We walked back onto the piazza and resumed our search.

I guess when you know where you are it’s a lot easier to get where you are going.  A few minutes later, we walked into the biggest gelateria I’ve ever seen.  There were rows upon rows of flavors with customers milling about speaking a variety of languages.  You pick your size, pay the cashier, walk up to the counter, and hand your ticket to one of the men in the white suits.  You get three different flavors and it’s topped off with homemade whipped cream!  I got Cioccoloto Fondente, Crema, and Frutti Di Bosco (quickly becoming one of my favorites).

 

We took our gelato back to the Pantheon and savored the incredible treat while sitting on the fountain steps and watching a very funny mime.  When tour groups walked by lead by flag-carrying guides, he would hold up a toilet brush and try to direct the group to the other side of the piazza.  One man approached him and pointed to a woman sitting at a table drinking wine.  He quickly whipped up a balloon heart and handed it to the woman.  He then offered to take a picture but when they gave him their camera he snapped a photo of himself, and then skipped around the square taking close-ups of very surprised tourists.  He even gave a little girl a balloon doggy in exchange for her stroller.

He had the entire piazza laughing and having a great time.  I couldn't help but think ‘If this guy was in New York, he would have probably been sued six times tonight alone.’

When he came around with a feather duster, dusting everyone off, I tossed a euro in his hat.

Everyday Miracles and Some (Not So Nice) Surprises

So apparently, when it rains in Rome, the typical daily ritual changes dramatically.

At 6:00am when the downpour peaked, a car alarm went off, the people above us started walking around, a couple cats got in a fight outside our window, and some guy was sneezing in the stairwell with a crying baby.

I guess you could say it was a long day.

But I can always close my eyes, take a deep breath, and come back to what is important.

I think being in an unfamiliar situation and being able to remain rooted in this kind of attitude has given me a greater appreciation for the little things. This week, two minor details of every day life gave me incredible joy.

First, I found shampoo and conditioner.

For the last three weeks I've been stretching and rationing the little travel bottles I brought in my carry-on luggage. As impressive as this might sound, keep in mind we had (Yes, had, as in past tense!) freezing cold showers for those three weeks and I couldn't muster up the courage to wash my hair every day. But I finally braved the fast-talking Italian shop owners, took my time browsing a little store on the corner, and found some familiar hair-care faces. Even if they have Italian accents.

Second, and I'm very proud of this one:

My pen ran out of ink.

For the first time in my life, I purchased a pen and used it until all of the ink was pressed onto paper. Think of all the words! The thoughts! The ideas! Two years of note taking and journal writing and I have empty tube to prove it!

Life is beautiful!

I'm Sorry We're Just So European

So it turns out the two days a week that I actually have class, my mornings don't start in a classroom at all. They are on-site lectures that are held all over the city. I can't believe it! Rome is my classroom!

I've decided to give you a quick rundown of what I see every week partly because it will help me make everything stick for my exams and also because IT'S SO AMAZING!

Last Monday my Art History class went to the Basilica di San Clemente, a small church that holds the ashes of the third successor to St. Peter. The church was built in the 12th century, on top of a church that was built in the 4th century, which was built on top of a house that dates back to the 1st century. It didn't sound very safe to me but I guess it was pretty common practice back in the day and they knew what they were doing. Or they may have just been very lazy. Anyway, we walked down some stairs all the way to the house where there is a subterranean river which tells us the ground level has risen substantially since then. Afterwards, we walked to the Campidoglio and had a brief history of Michelangelo.

My professor, though still hard to understand at times, is very knowledgeable and very nice. It's a three hour class and we always take a ten minute break in the middle for coffee.

Wednesday was a bit of a rough start. Dorothy and I got stuck waiting 25 minutes for a bus transfer. When we got to the meeting point we found our professor and apologized for being late. His response? "No, it's ok. You guys are actually the first ones. Did you eat breakfast? Do you want to get some coffee?" I guess coffee breaks with professors are pretty normal. It makes me feel very European.

Once the rest of the class showed up he took us to Testaccio. Once a major industrial hub of Rome, it went through a rough downturn as the developed nation turned into a service economy. Sounds familiar... *cough*DETROIT*cough*

Eventually various ethnic communities moved into the warehouses and put up flags to claim their "squatter's rights". It is now turning into the Free Trade and Organic center of the city. One of the old buildings has even been converted into an educational center where you can learn about Free Trade, living organic, and even Eco-Tourism. My professor was a little taken aback that I knew what Eco-Toursim was and even more so when I told him briefly about my trip to Ecuador a few years ago. It turns out he is sort of a cross between a sociologist and an International Relations scholar. He has offered to help with my thesis when I start it. (Next year! That's a scary thought!)

After touring the grounds of the Organic Farmers Market, he decided that he just had to take us to this beautiful park on top of the hill. The park is called the Orange Gardens. There is plenty of grass and beautiful orange trees, and you can see the entire city from the back edge.

Next to the gardens is the Basilica di St. Sabina, another one of Rome's hundreds of beautiful basilicas. Inside, sitting in the corner, is a large black stone. Our professor casually mentioned that it is said to have been touched by the Devil, and we were free to touch it too if we wanted to try our luck and perhaps damn ourselves to a fiery afterlife.

Outside the basilica, he showed us "The most famous keyhole in all of Europe." I bent over to look through it...

I'll let the picture speak for itself.

These are my classes! Wow!

Il Romano Compleanno! (My Roman Birthday and thoughts on life)

In the last few weeks before I left the US, I had countless people ask me the same question: "Are you excited?" Of course, I gave the obvious answer: "Yes!"

Excited for food, art, and history. Excited for architecture, culture, and traveling.

Excited to be alone.

Last year, a friend shared with me a book by a brilliant psychologist named Dr. Nathaniel Branden. He writes about personal development, life, and self-esteem. He says in order to be happy, we must know what makes us happy. As obvious as that sounds, it's not easy.

In order to know what makes us happy, we have to fully and consciously understand ourselves. And in order to do that, we must confront ourselves alone. We must know who we are when we are isolated from our friends and family, from our hobbies and past times, from our culture and our identities.

So here I am. The American without her country, the student without her university, the friend without her friends, the swimmer without her pool, the yogi without her mat. It's just me. And what I am discovering and confirming every day is that I love who I am and who I am becoming.

Turning 20 in this state was one of the most incredible and humbling experiences I've ever had.

I have grown up in what I think is one of the most beautiful places in the world. I have learned to spell 'Baccalaureate'. I have flown high in the sky and breathed underwater.

I am gratefully and blissfully in awe of life and everything that comes with it.

But constantly being in this state is not living. With the incredible inventions of phones and the internet, I can never be alone for long and we need to appreciate the subjective experience too.

Yesterday the Roman Apartment Gods gave me a relatively warm shower that I very much enjoyed. When I got out, my iPod was dinging with birthday wishes on my Facebook. The doorbell rang I received a beautiful bouquet of flowers. My phone went off with a wonderful call from my mom. And at night I got hugs from my wonderful friends here in Rome.

We went to a restaurant called MoMo Republic for dinner. It was very neat and the food was incredible. I forgot my camera, but here are some photos from their website. I had Caprese Salad, Spaghetti alla Carbonara, and Tenerezza di Cioccolato Caldo (very fancy chocolate lava cake). It was AMAZING!

Thanks to my friends from back home for the birthday wishes!

Thanks to my new friends here in Italy for a beautiful birthday dinner!

Thanks to my family for an already incredible semester in Rome!

Food, Glorious Food! (Eating in Rome and dealing with the Mafia)

I'll be honest, on my long list of reasons to come to Italy, the food is probably in the top 3. Between years of pre-swim meet carb-up parties, warm summer nights in Charlevoix, MI with Kilwins, and mom's delicious home-made loaves, I could not wait for the pasta, gelato, and bread.

I've found great pasta down town, delicious bread just up the street, incredible pizza in Naples, and amazing gelato almost everywhere! However, I didn't expect to find some of the best food in my own apartment.

I knew my semester of "Introduction to Rome" classes was going to be fascinating, but not as academically intense as I'm used to. So to supplement the experience, I have a few goals for this semester outside of the classroom that I am working on. Goal number 1: Learn to Cook.

Ummm....check? It turns out just being in Rome makes you an absolutely incredible chef. One of my favorite meals so far has been from the night Becca and I got simultaneousness veggie cravings. When we got to the store, we ran straight for the spinach. There was one bag left. One 5 pound bag. This thing barely fits in our refrigerator! We got home and I invented a Michigan-Caprese Salad. Tomatoes and mozzarella mixed with apples on a bed of spinach. It was so good to get some fresh greens, I didn't even dress it. Becca sautéed some mushrooms and stirred them into penne pasta tossed with olive oil. We folded in some spinach and topped it with some fresh grated asiago cheese. Oh yes, and the secret ingredient.

While browsing the isles of the Supermarcado, Becca stumbled upon a spice section. Apparently one small spice caught her eye. The only part of the label that we have managed to identify (due to our minimal Italian vocabulary, and because we accidentally ripped the label) is "Per Pasta." So, we put it on pasta. IT IS MAGICAL. It makes everything taste so much more vibrantly. It brings out the best in every flavor and makes your taste buds happy.

Another one of my favorite creations was concocted at lunch one day. I brushed olive oil and sprinkled some salt and pepper on some chicken breast and broiled it for 4 minutes on each side. I threw them on a bed of spinach and topped with some cut mozzarella. mmmmmm.

When we need a night off from being world class chefs, we will usually go down to Trestevere for dinner. Our most recent favorite is a little restaurant tucked away by the river called Le Fate. It's cozy and the walls are covered in large leaves, bark, and pictures of fairies giving the subtle illusion that you have wandered into an enchanted forest.

Why do we so enjoy this trip to Neverland? The owner is the sister of a professor at AUR and she has designed a 10 euro student menu for every day of the week. You sit down, show your ID, and she brings out a preplanned meal consisting of an appetizer, a pasta course, and a desert. The other night we were served Artichoke Brushcetta, Baked Lasagna, and Chocolate Mousse. It's good to be a student!

In other food news, I think I am being targeted by a Clementine assassin. Last week, while walking home from class, a small citrus bullet whizzed by my head and hit the fence behind me. I whirled around to see where the missile could have come from but there was no one around. If ever you don't hear from me for more than two weeks, I have probably met my pulpy end. Please respect my wishes to donate the remainder of my college fund to the founding of an organization that educates future study abroad students about the dangerous Orange Mafia and how to protect themselves.

Oh! I almost forgot! Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to share with you my very first cappuccino!

Please excuse my desperate need for a haircut.

Anyway, if you have any tasty, simple, and college-budget friendly recipes or favorite dinner spots in Rome, let me know!

"I pack my trunk, embrace my friends, embark on the sea and at last wake up in Naples!"

Leave it to Ralph Waldo Emerson to sum up my first official day trip in Italy. The quote comes from his essay "Self-Reliance." It's an interesting piece that I read in high school. The line just before this one reads "At home I dream that at Naples, at Rome, I can be intoxicated with beauty and lose my sadness."

The trip was organized by a company called Bus2Alps. It was convenient and a lot fun. I highly encourage you can check out their website, Bus2Alps.com. Pick out your favorite, and you're just a quick PayPal donation away from reading about all of these fabulous adventures on your

favorite blog! :D I kid, but I will definitely be budgeting for some of these awesome trips while I'm here.

We left the apartment at 6:30am. I think it was the first time we were up before the Roman sun and I was very excited. It took me back to my crazy swim team days when I had practice in the morning and reminded me why I retired. After a short bout of frustration, a medium spell of dazed confusion, and a decently long walk (we had a little difficulty finding the right stop) we jumped on the H bus and rode to Stazione Termini, which I have decided is pretty much the Union Station of Rome. Because we are so obviously on top of things and well organized, we got to the station early enough to enjoy a lovely breakfast of chocolate croissants and bottled water.

For you history buffs, Naples claims to be the true home of the pizza. And for you movie lovers, the staff of the parlor that Julia Roberts visits in Eat, Pray, Love claim the title of Inventors. So naturally, that is where we went. After we resolved the issues of missing forks, missing chairs, missing knives, and yes, more missing forks, we feasted! It was the most incredible pizza I've ever had. Well worth the three hour ride there. We were seated immediately and when we left we realized how well we had timed our lunch. There was a mob of 30 or 40 people waiting to get in. Apparently, that is the usual wait. Even for the locals. (The reason I look a little strange in that picture is because my mouth is full of pizza!)

After lunch we walked down to the shore. I didn't realize how much I missed the water. It gave me an overwhelming sense of awe and relief. It was like a reality check that put into perceptive the fact that I am actually living in another country and surviving pretty well. I was very happy, but it made me miss my Charlevoix, Michigan.

On the very tip of the coast is the oldest castle in Naples, Castle dell'Ovo. It was build on a little rock island. I couldn't find a date, but one of the signs said the construction of the tower of the castle began in 1154. We circled the interior, slowly climbing to the top. The view was fantastic from every angle.

After climbing back down, we grabbed some heavenly gelato and sat by the water. I got half Frutti di Bosco and half Cioccolato. Three stereotypical Italian men kept offering to rent us one of their little row boats for an hour. "Dieci euro per tutti!" As tempting as it was, we passed up getting soaking wet right before our bus ride back home.

Before boarding the bus, we walked around Piazza Plebiscito, explored the church of San Francesco di Paola, and saw the Castle Nuovo. We also walked around the Galleria Umberto which I thought was beautiful, but apparently the locals kind of see as their I.M. Pei "Damn Pyramid." Afterward, we boarded the bus and immediately gave in to total exhaustion.

Here is the gang at the Galleria: Megan, Tim, Anna, Rachel, Max, Becca, Dorothy, and Sophie!

What a day!